We typically only had one meal ‘out’ per day, sometimes lunch, sometimes dinner. For a few favorites we returned to a restaurant at a different time of day too.
il Passatello di Bologna – Easy to make a reservation via WhatsApp. Eric had the passatelli with prosciutto, while I went for tortellini with porcini mushrooms. The tortellini were larger than the broth based ones and filled with ricotta – the mushrooms were delicious. We split a bottle of the Bel star Valdobbiadene prosecco (light peach, tropical fruit and vanilla, fine bubbles). Very light and nice on a warm evening! The chocolate dessert was also divine, a tenerina al cioccolato with marscapone cream.
Trattoria Nonna Gigia – we went twice for dinner, once at the beginning of the trip and again near the end. We showed up the first time without a reservation and were offered a table from 7:45p until 9pm – no problem! Bread basket included focaccia bites and gnocco fritto (fried flat dough). Eric ordered the (very red!) tortellini with prosciutto and pine nuts paired with a rosé, and I got the (very green!) ravioli with mortadella and pistachio paired with a Sangiovese. For dessert we tried the chocolate salami – no meat in it! Cocoa-y with biscuits, it was quite tasty as well.
We made a reservation in person a few days ahead of our second visit and this time paired our meal with a pinogletto Frizzante. Eric got the rosa tortellini with pine nuts again and I was more in the mood for a steak tartare, which was quite large. Service both times was friendly and welcoming.
Zapap – stopped in for pizza after hitting an aperitivo place down the street on Via del Pratello. We split the “joy” with mozzarella, gorgonzola, and hot salami. The pizza was messy and a little hard to pick up, but it was delicious. For drinks we tried two of the house beers, the rosa romano and the dunkel. Would imagine this place would be a great takeaway option as well.
Tannino – Bruschette e Vino – The first time we stopped in because many other places were full and we scored two seats in the front window. We decided to split a bottle of Franciacorta (fine bubbles with almond pastry nose, sweet yeast, apple cider, and hazelnuts – quite autumnal!) and ordered a bruschette each, the Bologna mia with meat sauce (amazing) for Eric, while I had the Tempesta with ndjua, eggplant caponata, and salted cacioricotta cheese. Very eggplant forward and a tad too bitter for me.
Thankfully, we returned a couple weeks later and I got the try the capicollo with artichokes and melted caciocavallo, which was delicious paired with a rich and fruity Montepulciano. Eric opted for the same toast with Bolognese sauce and a Pecorino (lots of lime, some pith and mineral, lively and nice). Since we had a great seat in the window again (and the weather was rather meh), we decided to stay longer with a bottle of the pignoletto. We noticed some tables had a crackers and olives snack selection but none was ever offered, so I asked and complimentary snacks were delivered.
I Panini di Mirò – very busy on a sunny Sunday afternoon! I grabbed a table just as someone left, planted Eric to save our spot, then stood in line to order. It wasn’t obvious, but I figured out I had to grab a notepad, write my order on a sheet a paper at the counter, and hand it to the staff. We decided to split a porchetta sandwich with dried tomato and cheese. I never saw a wine list and the red and white glasses I ordered for us were serviceable but it would have been nice to have a selection. They deliver to your table by yelling names; mine fit in with all the Italian names :) The bread was amazing and the pork was very flavorful. Could have used more tomato in our opinion, but overall very good. The street hosts several other outdoor restaurants so we walked down to check a few more out.
Trattoria Valerio – close to our apartment, we visited here twice, first for lunch and then for dinner with a reservation made in person. For lunch we arrived right as they opened and scored an available table; several tables had reserved signs and the small place filled up quick. Eric ordered the tortellini en brodo (delicate broth, meaty tortellini), and I had the Bolognese lasagna (decadent and delicious!)
For dinner, we each got a half liter of house wine, red for me and white for Eric, as it was a fantastic deal. We started with the pecorino and honey plate, then Eric had a pork cutlet with ham and cheese for his main and I had the Gramigna pasta with sausage. Everything was excellent – highly recommended!
Hostaria San Carlino – visited twice, once for dinner in the basement (with wifi to access the online menu thank goodness) and again for lunch outside in the sunshine. The first time Eric ordered the pork cheek in plum sauce with mashed potato (amazing) and I had the beef carpaccio with arugula and potatoes (also very good) that was absolutely covered in a salad. We paired those dishes with the La Mancina Barbera sparkling rose which went great with everything. Somehow we left room for the chocolate torta tenerina… airy, but so rich. The downstairs was cozy and service was pleasant, overall a great meal and very glad we had reservations given how busy they were.
On our lunch visit, Eric went for the pumpkin ravioli and fresh thyme with a pecorino wine, while I had the ricotta-filled tortelloni with artichokes and lemon and a Montepulciano. We again ordered the chocolate torta tenerina…
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Marsalino – when making the reservation during warmer weather I had requested outside and although it was a cool evening, it was still pleasant. The restaurant was quite busy, there was always a queue of people waiting for tables. I had a glass of Sangiovese paired with the Spaghetti Alla grecia with smoked guanicale and Eric got a Rosato (nice and big with medium finish and some bitterness) and the Tortellini with tartufo – first truffles in Bologna! Overall, service was good, and the food here was solid but not memorable. Bread was on the stale side, rather disappointing, and their dessert menu didn’t look interesting either.
Al Sangiovese Restaurant – the hardest place to get a reservation as it’s done via email with a long lag time. However, this place is popular and small and they don’t allow walk-ins, so glad we planned ahead! Located about a 20 min walk south from our apartment, it was a bit of a haul for 9pm, but we ended up at a cozy corner table. To start we ordered a bottle of lambrusco and it came in a rather unique chill device that had the bottle on an angle with a chill sleeve on the back. We had decided in advance to get two courses each, so we each started with a pasta, the parmesan and sangiovese risotto (purple!) for Eric and the garganelli with mortadella for me, followed by two steaks, the sangiovese steak (disappointing sauce with little flavor, but beef was tender and good) for Eric and the beef with mushrooms (sauce was good but meat was underseasoned) for me. Couple running the place were very nice. It was the most expensive meal of the trip and ultimately left us a little underwhelmed.
ScemuÁ Bistrot – located at the end of Via del Pratello, the menu looked different than some other places in town, so I made us a reservation for a mid-week dinner. We started with a bottle of Prosecco miol millesemato 2024 and ordered a piadina with prosciutto, fontina and arugula as an appetizer. We each ordered a pasta for our main course, the lasagna for Eric (amazing) and I managed to score the last plate of Gramigna with sausage. Everything was excellent, including the friendly service!
Fabrik” – another favorite from a previous trip, we had a lovely aperitivo / dinner here on a relaxing Sunday. Our reservation scored us the same two seater corner table we got last time! We split a bottle of Soligo Col De Mez DOCG Brut prosecco with complimentary potato chips (really nice!) and olives. For dinner, Eric ordered a custom panini with ham, parmesan cream, sundried tomato and arugula, while I had a bruschette with salami rosa, squacquerone cheese and honey.
Bella Riva caffè dal 1979 – Eric bookmarked this place so we could try their pinsa sandwiches (a Roman dough that is lighter and airier). We stopped in for lunch, found a table and ordered at the bar. Eric had the mortadella, Stracciatella, and pistachio pesto and I got the mozzarella and greens, plus a lagrein wine. Eric’s hot chocolate was the star of the meal, with a generous side of whipped cream!
