For our last Saturday in Bologna we decided on a daytrip to Ravenna, a coastal city known for its mosaic-clad 5th/6th century UNESCO world heritage sites. It is a little over an hour from Bologna by train, and our arrival was uneventful. Leandra had bought our tourist passes online the day before, reserving timed slots for the two bapistries, so all we had to do was scan the QR code on her phone and we were in!
From the train station we started our walking tour at the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. The mosaics in this church are up high and ring the nave. Lots of biblical stories portrayed on the highest parts, followed by a ring of saints that lead to Jesus and Mary anchoring the alter side. It is stunning.
The attached small museum was actually quite informative on how the mosaics were made, renovations, etc.
From there we walked to Dante’s Tomb, located at the end of a small pedestrian way with lots of cyclamen nearby.
Our next stop was the Basilica di San Francesco, which features an underwater crypt. We lucked out that a group had paid the 1€ fee to illuminate the crypt when we got there, and saw an employee feeding the fish!
Nearby we took a quick peak in the Franciscan Cloisters where a mosaics exhibition was on display.
Our route took us to Porta Gaza (city gate), then the Duomo which was huge. This working church was big but not very ornate, with a small crypt at the end and bells ringing at noon. The mosaics on the floor were well worn.
Continuing on, we headed to St Andrew’s Chapel and Archiepiscopal Museum. The museum itself was pretty small but it had some interesting pieces. The small chapel was very crowded as it is the main draw
Our time slot for the Neonian Baptistery was approaching, so we got in line. There are a lot of bus-sizes tour groups for this one and they are strict on the five minute time limit! The ceiling is exquisite – featuring the baptism of Jesus.
We had some time to wander before our lunch reservation, so we explored. First, the Piazza John Fitzgerald Kennedy & Palazzo (plainer than expected), then Rasponi dalle Teste, up Via Mentana, to the Mercato area and Piazza del Popolo then down Colorado Ricci. We enjoyed finding some extra street art and mosaics hidden around town.
Lunch was at an outdoor table at Ristorante Marchesini. I had the Cappelletti “Marchesini” with saffron, walnuts, and culatello, which had a nice balance of richness and saltiness. That was paired with a surprise white – lots of floral notes, jasmine and lychee, it turned out to be a gewurztraminer. Leandra ordered the fagottini pasta filled with Treviso radicchio, speck and walnuts served with gorgonzola fondue, and naturally paired with a sangiovese. Both dishes were excellent.
Now full, our next stop was the Basilica of San Vitale – wow! This church features a massive mosaic above the altar, plus impressive trompe l’oeil paintings in the main rotunda.
The grounds also host the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, a small, dark outbuilding with an ornate ceiling featuring gold stars and a center cross. Photos don’t do it justice.
We were near the far end of the old town, so we walked a few blocks to the Porta Adriana (city gate), and then stopped at the Alehop so Leandra could get some new cozy socks. On the way back to the train station we checked out the outside of the Basilica di Santa Maria in Porto, and the sculptures at the museum next door.
From there we took a quick walk to canal area, then into the train station where we found our train cancelled!
Leandra had just bought our tickets for the cancelled train 20 minutes before via the Trainline app, but thankfully she was able to move our reservation to the following train departure. To kill time till the next train we decided to get a glass of wine. Given the time of day between lunch and dinner, many spots were closed, so we ended up walking a bit further out to the Merikipe Café. Here I got to try a new-to-me varietal, Albana deca, while Leandra tried an aperitivo bianco frizzante. The free snacks were appreciated!
An hour later we were back at the train station, and this time the train was ready to take us back for our final night in Bologna.
Ravenna was a great daytrip, the churches, and more specifically, the mosaics were some of the most memorable we’ve seen in some time.