With a full week in the city we were able to try a decent number of spots around town.
Sunday
Da Frasca – We were glad we had a reservation, as it is small and they did turn people away. I ordered the blue cheese gnocchiete with hazelnuts plus a house white (possibly an arneis?). Leandra had the mezze maniche with butter, lemon and anchovy, and paired with a dolcetto d’alba. Had to tell the young guys at the next table to turn off the volume on their videos (eye roll).
Tuesday
Pasticceria Abrate – Bicerin is a notable coffee drink for Turin, but most seemed overpriced / aimed at tourists. After a decent amount of research Leandra decided to try one here (with ameretto), plus a hot chocolate with whipped cream for me. We were lucky to grab an indoor table as they got quite busy with the lunch crowd around 12:45.
Wednesday
Coffee Wine Emilio Ranzini – we stopped in for a pre-dinner drink. There were a decent number of people outside, but there were a few seats available when we first got in near 6p. Within 15 minutes it was full! Note that there was a backyard courtyard space too. The popularity is no surprise as the house wines are quite inexpensive! I got the house wine Arneis (lovely floral) and the house Nascetta (fall fruit, med acidity – pleasant, should try more!) Leandra got a rosé vermouth and the house Nebiolo (like a deep rosé). No free snacks, so we opted for the 1,50€ breadsticks.
AM restaurant – For dinner we decided to share the pulled beef croquette with smoked provola cheese, pumpkin cream, sweet and sour mustard seeds and truffle mayonnaise. This was as tasty as it looks.
Then it was pappardelle with deer ragù for me, and the beef tartare with rosemary-flavored oil, toasted hazelnuts, pioppini (mushrooms) in oil and fresh fennel for Leandra.
We paired everything with a bottle of Iskèntu Colli del Limbara Nebbiolo rosé. Served chilled, it was very nice with sharp acidity, red berry, evergreen, almond, mineral. Somehow we still had room and ordered the chocolate dessert. Salted caramel, bitter cocoa crumble, amaretti biscuits and toasted hazelnuts, it was really rich and very worth it.
Leandra asked for a limoncello but they were out; instead they comped us an amaretto! We really enjoyed the meal here – great service, great food, nice ambience.
Thursday
Crostone – a small sandwich spot with a handful of indoor tables that we stopped at for lunch on our way to the Egyptian Museum. They specialize in Bra sausage, so we got #40 with sundried tomato and #41 with bagna càuda (a garlic, anchovy and olive oil spread). The sausage had a savory spice taste to it, like cumin and cinnamon, and paired well with the cheese and tomato. Leandra ordered me a fancier white (Arneis) and got herself a serviceable box red wine. Hit the spot, no complaints.
Tastuma Cheese & Wine Bar – We couldn’t resist getting the cheese and meat board, which featured mortadella, sopressata, cooked Parma ham, plus Camembert, cavallo, pecorino from Sardinia, and a blue cheese. We paired everything with the Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG Spumante – our first time trying this varietal, it was nicely balanced, with a touch of fruity sweetness, not cloying.
Friday
Panificio Della Basilica – located on the corner of the market, we had passed by several times before I decided I’d try them out for breakfast. I came back with cornettes, chocolate and pistachio. The pastry was flaky, but the filling was fairly small and the pistachio was too sweet.
La Vinoteca Torino – a small wine bar a few blocks north of the centre, we stopped in for aperitivo. I tried the Ciari traminer (lots of floral on nose and palate, quite satisfying) and then the house chardonnay. Leandra started with the Barbera, and then the house dolcetto. We also had the opportunity to try a free sample of their toma cheese – really strong and fairly stinky, it was pretty good!
Saturday
Accademia del Panino – located just a few blocks from the Mole Antonelliana, we grabbed a small outdoor table for a late lunch. The sandwiches here are large! I went for the ham, apple and tomino cheese, while Leandra opted for the spicy salami, robiola cheese and olive pate. Beer was a good deal, so we split one and enjoyed the warm autumn sunshine and cool air.
Coffee Wine Emilio Ranzini – Early in the evening we were passing by, so we ducked in a second time. Leandra switched it up with a Moscato d’asti (lots of orange blossom, almost soda like), while I went back for the Nascenta. We also split a potato croquette.
I Sapori Piemontese – with a really early morning flight we opted for a takeaway dinner from this stall in the Mercato Centrale building. We ordered one meat-filled plin with butter and sage, and a meat-filled agnolotti in a roasted gravy. Both were a nice end to our week in Turin.
