Ferrara was our first daytrip from Bologna, and while the closest, it took almost an hour on the train due to various slowdowns. Once we arrived we were quickly out of the station, across the road and into town. Our first impression is that the wide surrounding streets were quite leafy compared to Bologna – it was our first time hearing birds other than pigeons in two weeks!
We made our way toward the center of town, with a quick detour to check out the Acquedotto di Ferrara.
The old town was bustling with lots of people enjoying the Autumn sunshine. As we got closer to the castle and cathedral the streets get narrower, with meandering side streets paved with river rocks, quite charming.
Since we only had an hour until our lunch reservation, we picked up our myFE card from Castello Estense, as it would include admission to the Castello and Schifanoia for 20€, and decided to come back later.
Instead, we continued up to the Diamante Palace for photos of the facade. Then across the street to Parco Massari where we saw a lady calmly driving a small car down the sidewalk… !?
Next up was Chiesa di San Cristoforo alla Certosa. We didn’t have a lot of time so we stayed outside and wandered through the memorials.
For lunch we had reservations at Trattoria da Noemi. It was empty at 12:30p, and completely filled by 1:30p. Cappellacci is the signature pasta of the town, so we each got one. Leandra had hers with ragu; for wine, the primitivo and a montepulciano for her second. I tried the cappellacci di zucca (squash), guanciale and pecorino, plus a passerina wine. Portions were big, we were stuffed, and service was friendly and efficient. Also a nice bonus that still or sparkling water and bread was included with the coperto (service charge).
After lunch we walked along Volte checking out the river stone streets and old buildings. The old wall itself was disappointing.
Returning to Castello Estense, we had our tickets stamped and checked out the interior. There was a lot more reading than expected. Inside we saw from the bottom (the dungeon had small doors) to the very top (nice views from orange patio and tower). Many of the ceilings are painted, and the mirrors that let you observe without straining our necks were appreciated! We also saw several illuminated manuscripts.
At this point we were a bit tired, but we walked over to Palazzo Schifanoia to check it out. The video introduction to the building’s history was actually pretty informative, showing how it evolved over the years. First rooms had some artifacts (that had been mentioned in the castle), and then the second level let you see the fresco walls up close.
The famous Hall of Months also had a video, followed by a dramatic entrance to the low lit space. It is amazing they’ve been able to save some of the paintings from a 1700s whitewash.
At the end we took a quick peek into garden, then walked back to center of the city.
Leandra didn’t love the wine options at Al Brindisi, and they had a 2€ cover charge, so we pivoted. We ducked into the church but a mass had just started…
Ended up at I.M Capitol Wine Bar, which we had noticed on our walk in from the train station in the morning. Both of us got the sparkling rose, a grappello ruberti. Unfiltered, it had a beautiful pink color, quite fresh and fruity. Saw our waiter from lunch passing by, and he approved of our choice!
Finally, we walked back to the train station and waited for our ride back to Bologna. Leandra was able to get us tickets via the Trainline app for both directions about 30 minutes before we departed, meaning we could stay flexible on time and not have to deal with the finicky machines or long waits at the ticket desk.
Ferrara was a lot of walking, as things are more spread out than they appear on a map, but we were glad to experience it for the day.