Day four featured a multiple hour drive with several stops along the way. From our overnight in Jakar, we started west, heading up in elevation until we eventually hit 3400m in the Yuto La Pass. The air was definitely thinner and chillier up here! There were some magnificent views, and it was interesting to see the ecosystems change, in part due to altitude, but also a clear difference in moisture. On the other side of the pass the forest transitioned from from straight pine trees to a mix of cypress and others, plus some massive rhododendrons. We also saw some of the first yaks and waterfalls.
After about 2 hours of driving we arrived at Trongsa Dzong, a massive administration and monastery complex, plus fortress, that controls the pass between these two regions. We visited multiple temples with ornate interiors, saw some beautiful artwork, and admired the dramatic view across the valley.
. 
Further down the road we stopped for lunch at Willing Waterfall Cafe – we split a pakora plate (very crispy and served with a spicy brown sauce that probably had tamarind and vinegar), then Leandra got the tom yum (lacked coconut milk, boo) and I ordered the pumpkin soup (which took ages for some reason). This was a popular stop given the location plus the beautiful waterfall – just know that eating outside would have been unpleasant due to the swarming bugs!
Continuing on we stopped for a few more waterfalls, and a view of the Trongsa Dzong from the other side of the valley.
However, a real highlight were the Assamese macaques in trees near the road, including one troop that seemed to be posing.
The forest became quite diverse, and the mountainsides even steeper. We made a quick stop at the Chendebji Chorten – again, you had to keep moving, as there were lots of flies!
Close to our destination now we stopped at Pelela Chorten lhakhang, which had a small market where Leandra was kidnapped by a little boy. We also tried dry yak cheese here (surprisingly mild, even more so than Swiss).
Finally, after a full 8 hour day, we arrived in Gangtey valley (also known as Phobjikha Valley), which was chilly at 3000m elevation!
The next morning, after some leisurely time reading on our tent porch, we packed up and drove to the starting point for the Gangtey Nature Trail hike. This 2 mile hike took us through a forest and down along the valley’s green meadows. Bonus points for being mostly downhill from this direction! We had a few spots of rain, but nothing too bad, thankfully, and saw lots of flowers, plus a migrating yak herd!
The expansive views of the valley were great too.
Next, we stopped to see two rescued black-necked cranes, Karma and Pema. We even got to hear one calling. We were visiting the wrong time of year for the crane’s annual migration so this was a nice bonus.
On our way out of the valley we stopped to add a prayer flag at Lawala Pass.
