On this trip to Milan we flew into the smaller, but much closer, Linate airport, which let us take the city 73 bus to the Duomo area.
After dropping our bags at the hotel we walked around, trying to keep ourselves awake. Our first stop was Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore. It feels like every available surface in the building features artwork including carvings and many biblical murals.
Just down the street was a Panini De Santis that happened to be fairly quiet, so we stopped for a snack. We each got a glass of wine (verdicchio for Eric, Nebbiolo for Leandra) and split a panini with giardiniera, prosciutto and fontina cheese.
Next we walked toward Sforzesco Castle and ran into a 2023 Milano Kaplag & Sinulog Festiva parade through streets – lots of drums, dancing, and brightly colored costumes. Everyone seemed to be having a great time!
From the castle we walked around the Brera neighborhood, eventually getting one of the few outdoor tables at Brera 29 Cucina. Eric ordered the Italian gewurztraminer (very floral and peppery) while Leandra ordered the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Both were served with potato chips and olives, and we enjoyed the people watching from our seats.
Later that evening we went to dinner at Salsamenteria di Parma, which featured a number of traditional regional options. Eric ordered the polenta with gorgonzola and Leandra tried the tagliatelle with homemade ragu. Both were served really quickly, and were amazingly tasty.
One wrinkle – after we ordered the waiter dropped off bread and two ceramic bowls. Unbeknownst to us the bowls are a traditional way to drink Lambrusco, and not for the bread… thankfully they gave us a new bowl after mildly chastising Leandra.
The next morning Leandra went to Princi for coffee and parties. They were quite busy, so they wait was long and while the latte macchiato was good, the raspberry and chocolate croissants were too buttery/greasy.
Before we headed to the train station we stopped at Cesarino for take-away panini – the #2 ham and cheese for Eric, while Leandra went with Crudo di Parma, squacquerone, and rocket. Both were excellent choices for the train ride to Venice.