As is common for us, our March 2018 return to Italy came about due to a good airfare deal. Oddly enough, it turned out to be exactly one year from our 2017 trip, though this year was significantly cooler.
For this trip we flew in and out of Rome, taking the regional train to Trastevere and then buses to our neighborhoods. We considered a trip exploring some of the Roman countryside but instead decided on a weekend trip to Naples sandwiched between four nights in Rome. Confirming our previous experience – we continue to love Rome; Naples proved interesting, far dirtier than expected, but still worthwhile.
Where We Stayed
Xenia Guest House, Rome
With excellent reviews on Booking.com, we were intrigued to stay at this small four-room accommodation. Located on the edge of Campo di Fiore, and just across the bridge from Trastavere, Xenia has a great location for exploring Rome. Note that they are on the 5th floor, so you get to take the vintage elevator up!
Our room was nicely sized with a wardrobe and room for our bags. A nice feature – lots of accessible outlets. The bed was a bit firm, but reasonably comfortable. Doors are thin, but with only 4 rooms it wasn’t too loud with the exception of the breakfast service (it may be hard to sleep late here given that).
We appreciated the counter space in the good size bathroom too. Another nice touch – coffee and little cookies available in the main reception area.
beautiful entryway into building complex; teas and cookies available in the room
Most notable were the engaging and hospitable hosts who were eager to provide assistance (and coffee!). They were excellent and make Xenia stand out. We’d definitely recommend Xenia to friends and family, and would consider a return ourselves.
B&B Montecalvario 41, Naples
Centrally located directly outside the Toledo metro stop, and right in the middle of the shopping district, B&B Montecalvario 41 is a small two room setup in a larger apartment building one flight up (with an elevator). Our host was nice, providing us with a map and suggesting several places to eat. Our room was a loft layout with the bathroom and desk on the first floor, and a bed up a set of metal stairs. The bathroom was nice enough, though it could use more counter space.
Upstairs there were hangers and a bench for luggage. The bed was fairly firm, we would have appreciated a pillow top on this one.
Big windows with massive shutters. Surprisingly quiet at night, still wanted ear plugs for the early morning street noise.
Breakfast was served on a cart in our room – warm croissants, coffee, fruit juice, toast points, Nutella and jelly. Big for Italy!
On our first night we received a text from our host that the hot water was out – besides showers, this also meant no heat! Our host proactively offered to refund us some of our deposit, and had set up an alternate place for the next night if they couldn’t fix it. Thankfully, the issue was fixed in the morning.
Overall, our stay at B&B Montecalvario 41 was pleasant, and I would consider a return on a future visit.
Tiberina Apartment, Rome
For our last two nights in Rome I had found an interesting apartment just a few blocks from Xenia. As before, the location is great, right in the middle of the Jewish quarter with multiple restaurants and bakeries, and close to river too.
Our apartment had lots of space and windows that opened to the street and courtyard. The bed was comfortable, definitely the softest of the trip. A good size wardrobe was found in one corner, along with a bench for our suitcase. The bathroom was large with lots of counter space. The hot water almost got us – there is a small pull cord for hot water above the shower.
Since this was an apartment there is also a small kitchen with a dishwasher and cooking utensils, as well as a washing machine located outside on the small balcony. We were very comfortable here and would definitely consider a return in the future.